Sippin' Coffee in Fes

i got into Fes at 5am it was dark cold and raining, it was absolutely miserable out and i had no clue where i was in relation to the city. I pulled my bag out from under the bus and scurried under an over hang where i noticed the rest of the disembarking passengers were. i took a deep breath and sighed, i looked at the rain and thought, what to do? i watched the rain fall for a few minutes took notice to how wet my jacket was for only being out side for such a short moment, i looked at my pack and that was wet too, i continued to think, what to do as now i began to shiver.
i noticed across the way there was a large building with a light on. the name was in french and i hand no idea of what it meant. i soon I noticed people with bags running towards another far away building in the rain, others were being dropped off near by in taxis. was it the bus station, i wasn't sure but i picked up my bag and made a run for it. upon entering i noticed all the seats to wait were full and it was not a bus station but a train station. i saw a few people sitting on the floor and i took my spot, now even more wet, and still cold, i sat on the tile floor. Although i knew it would not be approved of, i took out my sleeping bag anyway, unzipped it and covered my self, my camera bag and my pack and drifted off to a much needed 2 hour sleep.

I was woken by a guard who was peaking french, i replayed "no pali vu france" and in English he quickly told me "you can't sleep here, where are you going" he asked. i knew there was a 6:50am train to Marrakesh and glancing at the clock i saw it was 7am, "marrakesh" i said, "you just missed it" the guard replied "but there is 1 in a hour" he told me, as i pretended to look confused, "well i guess i'll head back to my hotel," i said as i packed up my sleeping bag and slowly made my way out the door. I was intending to stay in Fes the whole time but was happy to dodge the unpleasant conversation with a disgruntled guard for sleeping on the floor.

I hopped a cab to Ba bou Jaulad, it was my first meter taxi i have had on this whole trip and god i was it bliss to not have to bargain for a ride. i arrived around 730am and it was still dark and cold but the rain has reduced to a drizzle and i was thankful for that. I wondered down the narrow streets of Fes which very much reminded me of the ones of varranasi, minus the cows, shit, and poverty of course. There were new smells, dark allies, wet cobbled roads, not wide enough for a car, but big enough for a donkey to push through with a small cart. My old worn out shoes were soaked and i slowly wondered through the semi empty streets.

Where sight of narrow streets and covered pathways reminders me of india, the chill, the smell of wood fires burning, those brought me staring back to New Zealand, being blessed with many cold autum/winter days in NZ my mind began to wonder as i started to think of the snowy peaks and warm fires. I snapped back into reality and continued on squishing through the old city of Fes in my soggy shoes. Nearly an hour later i could feel the weight of my pack on my shoulders and hips, slightly frustrated that i speak neither french nor arabic i realised i was helplessly lost and no set of directions in a foreign language was going to help me. i made my way to an exit of the old city and payed yet another meter taxi to drop me back off at where i had started.

The rain began to pick up slowly as i reentered at Ba Bau Jelad for a second time. it's time likes these that you miss the people and places you love and are familiar with. stores and hotel doors are now beginning to open and i dropped my bag in one of the first that i looked at, being cheaper than Marrakesh, i was happy to settle and attempt to dry out for a bit.

i was still cold but at this point i was hungry as well and had to find some food. i began to wonder down the same narrow street i was on an hour ago and sat down at cafe which caught my nose, dark roasted coffee drew me in, and the struggles of the early morning began to fade. After a 12hr bus ride that chilled me to the bone and my morning hotel hunt that coffee was a perfect way to start. Now smiling again, I followed the coffee with a lamb and egg tajine, dripping with fat i soaked it all up with a loaf of fresh bread, feeling overly guilty about the year i just took off my life (due to the saturated fat i just drank) my eyes began to wander and watch the cafes across the way as they were absolutely filled. not offering food, many customers were purchasing bread, friend dough rings, and a roti-like snack from other vendors and just sitting down for a single glass of mint tea or a cup of coffee. they sat for hours just watching people pass by, some in groups occasionally talking and some alone just content to be there.

i ate my breakfast and went for a walk, an hour later returning to the same street wondering past the same cafe patrons, as they may have watched me eat breakfast across the way, they may also have watched me wonder past, just watching life drift past, i thought how odd.

Fes really didn't take to me, and maybe it was because i arrived 2 days after the largest Holiday of the year, a holiday which actually lasts a week, where every family slaughters a sheep or a goat, in memory of Abraham who set to the mountain top to kill his son (a sheep was slaughtered instead) so once a year this biblical tale is reenacted. When i think about it my most interesting time in Fes was wondering down the empty streets alone at 730am the morning i arrived. wondering through shoulder width streets, walking past stacks and stacks of folded sheep skins left on the side of the road from the day before, i walked past a Fes city garbage truck which was a donkey with an enormous basket tied to it's back. simply walking the empty streets. i was helplessly lost, slightly bothered but couldn't help but be fascinated with this new city i was forced to explore so early in the morning.

As the city began to wake and the shops open up i struggled to find the charm, the narrow streets became cluttered with people, the old wooden doors decorated in brass studs were covered in cheap clothing, and touristy nick knacks, the serenity was lost. i found my self intentionally getting lost in hopes to find a more unique Fes and never did. of course more streets than not are only traveled by locals, tourists stick to the main paths, but for some reason i was just not into it.
Two full days of Fes and i was done, if i had a guide, a mentor, a local to show me the ins and outs maybe i would have stayed longer but as for this trip i felt like it was time to move on. the next morning, 2 hours before i had to leave i strolled down that same narrow street one more time to grab a bite to eat. i observed the locals the past 2 days and was interested in what they have been snacking on, looking to save a buck or two i followed suit and lined up at a popular morning food stand. i ordered some porous bread backed in a large cast iron skillet almost like a pancake along with a flaky roti style bread, all drizzled with honey.
my breakfast was wrapped in deli paper and i carried it to the closest coffee shop. sipping a black coffee followed by a big glass of hot mint tea, morning traffic passed me by, the milk man delivering 5 gallon seal drums wheeled by me on a bicycle as a donkey loaded with 10+ propane tanks all strapped to it's back trotted past as well. it was cool morning and before the sun came up i could see my breath. i gripped my coffee tight in my bare hand to warm it up as i nestled my back against my seat and rested my head on the wall. more people began to pass and an hour later with an empty glass i realised why people come to these cafes for a simple morning coffee and stay for an afternoon tea. It is simply joying a timeless day, with nothing better to do, why not enjoy it in the sun. as many people back home camp out on the couch and watch the "tube," i realized is much the same. the morning passed quickly as i realised i had 20min. to catch my bus to Chefcheaoun, i better get going.