Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Egypt update

Not many roads comprise this country, it is a huge area with lots of empty land, sand dunes do not roll on as far as the eye can see as i once though, but the desert is large and can be perceived as endless when sitting out in the middle of it on a starry night. The Oasis towns are particularly interesting, some not so pleasant, but remarkable to see where people settled simply because of water and an underground spring. An ancient country with beautiful ruins, museums and history that can keep you busy for years, i enjoyed Egypt and was impressed with how friendly the people remain considering the millions of tourists whom plow through there country each year.



As it has been for thousands of year the Nile river valley provides almost all the land to sustain life and it's this narrow stretch of land that gets tramped by tourists day in and day out. Some visitors complain about being ripped off, scammed, or hassled by aggressive Egyptians, i say deal with it or don't come! Egypt for me was a good time!




Cairo: a bustling city of millions trapped with both old and new world ideas, farm land still being used along the nile river, prime real estate that strong willed locals refuse to give up. There is the urban sprawl of Giza which pushes up just a few feet from the entrance to the great pyramids and the sphinx. Donkey's and Camels still exist just a few miles from the city center along side tall buildings and consumer driven locals. The current direction of Cairo is apparent while the history and past has been put on display in the Cairo Museum.
I enjoyed the pyramids which can be reached in a simple day trip, i was amazed at how close to the city they actually are and surprised in how many people roam the desert attempting to sell you crap. i was a bit taken back when a police man asked me for a tip when he pointed me in the same direction i was heading and also surprised when i told him to piss-off and he just smiled.

Siwa: just about 50 miles from the Lybia boarder this sleepy little Oasis was a awesome place to chill for a few days. there is a fair bit to see and do, from sand boarding, to bike rides, to 4x4ing on the dunes, swimming in the hot springs, or wandering through the date plantations. the town is filled with 2 wheeled carts that are pulled by donkeys, it's how kids get to school, local restaurant delivery are made or just a way to get from point A to point B, donkey carts were everywhere.
being so isolated the town was quaint, quiet, and relaxing, it was also a dry (no booze), so my plan to drink tequila and ride around on a cart with a long stick and a thin rope with a carrot tied to the end (my cartoon vision of some obsucre life someone mayh have had) with my buddy Preston was foiled by the lack of "juice." probably a good thing but i'm sure it would have made for a good story. Siwa was a good place, about a 12hr bus from Cairo and the starting point to my desert tour.

Baharia, Black Desert, White Desert: Leaving Siwa in a 4x4 we were heading to Baharia another small Oasis town in the middle of nowhere. 450klm later we arrived in town after rolling for hours through the sand and bumpy roads. Baharia was not a place to go and hang out, not much going on but a ok place to stop for a cold beer after a long drive, unfortunately my guide wasn't havin' any of that and out to the desert we went to camp for the night.
Black Desert was nice to drive through but really not as interactive as the White. the white was filled with odd shaped mineral deposits which were left behind by evaporating water, as 1000's of years ago it was once the ocean floor. Shells line the desert as well reflecting the light of the sun to give you this truly odd glare. we camped in the white desert which was fantastic and would recommend doing for at least one full day and night, it was a cool place to drive through.

Aswan and Abu Simbal: Aswan was the middle point for a day trip to Abu simbal and a boat ride up the nile in a faluca all in one day. Up at 3am we got in a bus to about 100 miles from the Sudan boarder to see one of Egypts national treasures. a Monument which they cut up into large stone section and moved to a new location due to rising water from the Aswan dame. Impressive that people could build such structures 4000 years ago and equally impressive to see that it can be moved and a whole fake mountain created to house it. Personally i found it to be a bit far and if given the choice again may have passed on trekking all the way down here to get to it.
we hopped back on the bus drove 3.5 hours back through the desert to Aswan where we boarded a Faluca (boat) which powered by the wind took me and a 5 other travelers up river where we camped for the night. This i would have done for 2 nights but foolishly only paid for 1.

Luxor: Karnak Temple was and impressive religious sight and daunting to walk though. i found comprehending its age and its elaborate design to be near impossible. Valley of the Kings left me feeling the same way. The Knowledge of the Ancient Egyptians and their ability to build such things is very very impressive. while here i was also fortunate to celebrate the victory of an Egyption soccer match against algeria which pushed for a play off (which they lost days later) to get into the world cup. Preston and I were having a cold beer on the roof top of the hostel when we heard the explosion in the streets, cars were honking their horns, screaming and shouting. we ran down to the street knowing exactly what had happened and joined in on the celebration. An hour later i had found my self, riding 3 deep on a mortorcycle, standing on the roof of a few cars, mini vans, and taxis along with countless other Egyptions screeming EEEEEEEEEEEGYPT on top of my lungs. Hi-fivin' locals, shakin' hands and kissin' babies.... it was a lot of fun to see how well we were recieved for cheering for the home team, an experience to say the least.


Back in Cairo, Preston and I chilled out for a few days, ate some good local food and preparied to part ways. me on to Morocco and him down to Tanzania. I enjoyed my stay in egypt.

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